One of the most exciting things about visiting France for the very first time was definitely the opportunity to sample French cuisine. So iconic, so renowned and so tasty, we added France to Eat The World without any first hand experience. Aioli, ratatouille, bouillabaisse- so many elegant dishes I can barely pronounce…
Alas, this is not a post about what to eat in France. Trust me, I wish it was. I like nothing better than stuffing my self with local dishes, taking drool-worthy photos and bragging to you guys. This is not that post though, because there is a major problem with french food- I can’t afford any of it!
At least not in Provence, where we spent a little over a week traveling the Riviera on a tight budget. Here a cheap lunch (a sandwich and a drink) will set you back ten euros and a sit down meal will most likely be 30 Euros a head. This was staggering compared to what we’d been paying in Spain and would pay in Italy. This was particularly true in Marseille, France’s second largest city, where we spent 3 nights.
So here’s the rundown of my first hand experience with french food:
France on a Budget
Sandwiches, kebabs and pizza. None particularly french but all immensely popular and affordable, and thus our primarily meals while in the country. It was frustrating and it felt ungrateful- like sitting inside on a sunny day or sleeping through a symphony. We might as well pop into McDonalds and be done with it.
That’s why, when we first walked into a French supermarket my eyes nearly popped out of my head. If I couldn’t eat gourmet meals at least I could TRY some of the foods that make France famous. Crusty french bread, a huge array of cheeses, chocolates and bottles of wine for 3 Euros.
Lucky for us our cozy hostel in Marseille, Vertigo Viex-Port, had not one but two lovely kitchens. Clearly everyone else at the hostel had already figured out the secret as I observed lovingly prepared steaks, fig and goat cheese salads and more. Self-catering was the way to go, clearly.
Reasonable Splurges
Still, I only have so much willpower: I can only eat so many ham and brie sandwiches while strolling past sumptuous restaurants before I have to give in. I mean, how can you go to France and not sample any traditional french cooking?
So, just a handful of times, we braced ourselves and ate at a restaurant. On the suggestion of the friendly front desk employees we tried a tiny local restaurant up the street from our hostel specializing in Provencal dishes. For 20 euros each (not too painful) I got a steak, a slice of quiche, a baked potato and crusty bread. Dessert was yogurt drenched in honey. All of it so simple and so breath-takingly amazing. We devoured it like starving people.
Then there was the all organic garden restaurant down by the harbor (another hostel recommendation). A bit costlier but a hearty and immensely filling meal of yellow polenta, cabbage and rich stewed beef.
It was worth biting the bullet for a delicious meal, but at the end of the week I felt, well disappointed. Trying local dishes is such an important part of travel for me, it’s why I thought of Eat The World, and it really pained me that it was so cost prohibitive to do so.
Is there a less expensive way to sample real french food? Or is that simply the reality of travel in France? I would love to hear some reader input.
Special Thanks to Vertigo Vieux-Port hostel and HostelWorld for hosting us.
Pour l’economie et le gout, visitez les marchés alimentaires de plein air de France
France on a budget:
€0.60: Demi-baguette
€2.50: Camembert
€2: Rosé wine
Of course the food is expensive. You’re not paying for food, you’re paying for 3 day weekends, guaranteed employment and a failed economic philosophy.
Delicious isn’t it?
I’m indifferent to the French economy and social systems. I only care about food.
Your “friendly front desk staff’ were scamming you. I’m sure the food was tasty, but it wasn’t French cuisine, and €20 for that pathetic amount of quiche and a steak and potato is ridiculous. I had hotels who take advantage of tourists who genuinely want to learn about the local culture, be that recommending rip off restaurants or booking scamming taxi drivers.
Next time you’re in France, go for a ‘menu’- normally three courses for an insanely cheap price. When I lived in Bordeaux in 2008, at our favourite place we paid €12,50 for a three course meal including steak and it was traditional French food.
Whilst I did have an 8 course expensive though amazing degustation meal in Paris, I did enjoy going to the food markets and having prix fixe dinners! The cheapest place to eat breakfast is definitely just getting a croissant and coffee from a bakery.
You can eat massive lunches in bars/restaurants in rural areas for about €12. I agree that it’s not cheap but it’s less expensive to eat out at lunchtime rather than dinnertime. Self catering is the cheapest way to go if possible. When I was in Paris I mainly ate croissants! Staying away from the tourist areas is a must for budgeting.
For us, French food was just so darn expensive when we were in Paris – And that was the reality. We used my points and stayed at the Hyatt in Paris, so we were able to save money on accommodations so we could splurge on meals. Otherwise, we would have been screwed. When we stayed in Normandy, we got an apartment and cooked all our meals – Luckily, we shopped at the local markets, so I felt like we were getting some of the French food culture!
Smart idea to plan it into your budget. Next time I’ll try not to be so poor 🙁
Having lived in Paris for over 2 years now, I feel your pain. Yes, it is very expensive however there are definitely ways to enjoy French cuisine without breaking the bank. I have had the opportunity to have fancy meals and cheap ones but both can be great! My suggestion would be to hit up a boulangerie, fromagerie, and a charcuterie and make your own meal. Add it with a bottle of (good wine for cheap is an easy find in France) and you have a perfect meal!
mmm, wine and cheese is the best meal.